Last Shout - Posted by: Grumpy225 - Sunday, 25 August 2013 15:27
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Lambretta Fork Length Information

Via Corey Fraser (Scooter Fix!)

Thanks to Jem Booth for this info... I hope this helps you out

FORK STEM LENGTHS - all measurements are approx and are taken with the lower bearing track removed

Italian Series 3+ GP - has speedo/front brake cable support as seperate piece - also has cut out for headset clamp at the side of the thread (in line with front wheel)

Chrome ring
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 361mm
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 413mm
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 467mm

Non chrome ring
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 355mm
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 405mm
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 458mm

TV 200 - Chrome ring
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 361mm
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 413mm
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 467mm

GP
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 330mm
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 380mm
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 438mm

Italian Series2 - has welded on "loop" for speedo cable/front brake support - also has the cut out for the headset clamp bolt at the rear of the thread (at 180 degree to front wheel)

TV175 S2
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 361mm
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 412mm
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 462mm

LI 150 S2
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 359mm
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 407
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 462

Spanish

JET 200 -Large damper type - have single damper stud of 9mm diameter welded to single plate at top of fork leg. Also has cut out for headset clamp at the side of the thread (in line with front wheel)
From bearing track seat to centre line of steering stop = 358
From bearing track seat to bottom of thread = 405mm
From bearing track seat to top of fork stem = 460mm





A Quick and Dirty Guide to Bleeding Hydraulic Brakes
by Craig Bachler

This guide is designed to help first-timers with the bleeding process. While it's not a terribly difficult job, some of the steps are not always obvious if you haven't done it before. Make sure you don't get brake fluid on any painted surfaces as it will bubble and strip almost anything.

  • Fill reservoir with hydraulic fluid.
  • Have your banjo fitting at the lever (#1) tight and cracked loose at the caliper (#2). Also have your bleeder (#3)cracked (the small fitting on the caliper near the banjo).
  • Wait until fluid starts dripping out of the banjo fitting. Let it drip for a couple minutes, until it's relatively fast and consisitent, being careful not to let your reservoir run dry.
  • Once the dripping is consistent, tighten the banjo (leave the bleeder cracked) and then put on and screw down the reservoir's top (making sure it's full of fluid).
  • Now you'll need to get into the actual "bleeding" of air out of the line. It's a process of slowly squeezing the brake lever while the bleeeder is open and then closing the bleeder BEFORE letting go of the lever (slowly). **It's very important that you do not let off the lever at all while the bleeder is cracked open or you will suck in air and erase any progress***
  • As you do this again and again, you will feel pressure build as you pull the lever. After the pressure builds to your satisfaction, you're done!!

Happy New Year to you all!

Craig
Lambretta Club USA

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TECHNICAL TIPS
Series III headset lock removal
Quick and easy engine bushing replacement
Bleeding hydraulic brakes

R1/R6 Yamaha shock conversion
fig 1.
fig 2-3.

 














 
 
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